Sunday, July 14, 2019

No Waste Cooking

Massimo Bottura has always been my favorite of the Chef's Table documentary features, with his passion for the agricultural region he hails from, Emilia Romagna, and his dedication to retaining the artisan techniques of that region in crafting Parmegiano Reggiano, prosciutto di parma and Balsamic Vinegar. When an earthquake left Emilia Romagna's Parmegiano Reggiano industry in danger of total collapse with 300,000 aging wheels of Parmigiano damaged, Massimo Bottura used his restaurant to feature a myriad of preparations of Parmegiano to encourage use of the delicate ingredient and to become a champion of local food and farm-to-table in Northern Italy. Not only is Bottura passionate about tomatoes, balsamic vinegar, parmesan and all foods Italian, but he's become a charming advocate for sustainable eating with no-waste cooking. 

No-waste cooking is second nature to any urban farmer who's worked to nurture a single jar of sauce from a stubborn tomato plant or a single meal from a bed full of green bean plants. We know how precious every vegetable from the backyard garden is, and want to use every scrap. Here's a handful of recipes: one Massimo Bottura's recipe for meat broth which can be used in vegetable soups, risotto, or drunk straight for health as a bone broth; and then some uses for the pounds of stewed beef and chicken left-over after cooking the slow-cooked broth. 

Meat Broth (source: Massimo Bottura "Master Class")
1 medium yellow onion, halved
1 whole chicken (3 to 4 pounds, or 11⁄4 to 13⁄4 kilograms), preferably

free-range and organic
1 beef short rib (
la costola in Italian) 2 medium carrots, peeled
2 medium celery stalks, trimmed
2 fresh bay leaves
1 leftover rind Parmigiano-Reggiano 1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns Flaky sea salt

Place the stockpot over high heat and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to maintain a gentle simmer, and cook until reduced by a third, up to
six hours (or until the vegetables lose their flavor). Every 10 to 15 minutes, use a spoon to skim off and discard any impurities from the surface of the bubbling broth. When the broth is ready, remove it from the heat. Remove and discard the meat and large vegetables with tongs (you can use the chicken meat to make chicken salad, sandwiches, or for chicken noodle soup, etc.). Using a ladle, spoon the broth slowly through a chinois, or sieve, into another saucepan. Taste the broth, and season lightly with some salt. Serve immediately or pour the broth into storage containers, letting it cool to room temperature before putting it into the freezer. It will keep for up to three months. Any frozen stock that you don’t use for this recipe can be used to make soups, as flavorful liquid in a meatloaf, or even to enrich the gravy for your Thanksgiving turkey.


I was inspired by Massimo's suggestion to use the leftover chicken to make chicken salad to make a version of the chicken salad I make, inspired by a pesto chicken salad wrap I've had in at Sammy's Woodfired Grill. You know how much I love to get better versions of good stuff without paying full price! so when I had this at Sammy's (chopped chicken with pesto mayonnaise, olives, red peppers and chopped lettuce) I came home and made my own version with much more flavor and fresher vegetables. You can use a rotisserie chicken for the mixed dark and white chicken in this recipe, or all white breast meat if you wish. In the interests of less waste (less glass jars, less packaging, less transportation) I tried to use more of what came from my garden and less prepackaged food (basil and olive oil with fresh parmesan rather than using a canned pesto sauce). 

Basil Chicken Salad
Mixed chicken meat from one full chicken (can use the stewed meat from making bone broth, or a rotisserie chicken
Chopped fresh basil 
Chopped fresh Italian parsley
1/3 cup grated parmegiano reggiano
1 roasted pepper, skin blackened and removed, seeds removed
1  6 oz. jar olives, kalamata or green
2 lbs mixed heirloom tomatoes, chopped
1 tbl capers, rinsed and chopped.
Maldon sea salt flakes
Cracked black pepper
Balsamic vinegar
Butter lettuce

Chop the herbs and mix with the parmegiano, then mix into the chicken. Saute the chopped tomatoes with olive oil and salt just enough to soften and put everything, juices, oil, and tomatoes, into the salad. Chop the peppers, capers and olives and mix in. Adjust for salt and add a sprinkling of pepper. If desired add mayonnaise to bind the ingredients together but the oil from the tomatoes should bind everything nicely especially if you are using the stewed chicken from the bone broth. Drizzle with balsamic vinegar and eat on butter lettuce cups. 


South Carolina Barbecued Beef
2 lbs stewed beef from making meat broth, shredded
1/2 cup yellow mustard 
1/2 cup brown sugar
1/4 cup white vinegar
2 tbl worcestershire sauce
1 tsp salt
1 tsp pepper

Mix all ingredients but the beef to make a yellow mustard based Carolina barbecue sauce. Mix with the stewed beef and eat on buns or with a fork. 

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